After Iran, I was more than happy to get rid of my hijab and start cycling again with my t-shirt and shorts, and feeling the wind on my hair. One word: Freedom. I passed by Armenia more quickly than I would have ever thought. I met Polish friends who were going to Georgia for a festival and quickly I decided to join them. I had dreamed of a festival for couple of months, but at the same time when the change was there I was a bit sad to skip almost whole Armenia. I could t remember, when was the last time I had been listening live music and danced? We hitch hiked together to Yerevan, capital of Armenia from where we took a bus to the border of Georgia. It's amazing how people were willing to help us by giving us rides and my bike was never a problem, it even traveled inside tiny cars hanging half way out without getting damaged at all. During this trip, I really appreciate people's attitude, when they don't look for problems but instead solutions.
By choosing to go to One Caucasus festival ended up being one of my highlights in Georgia (even though Georgia was one big highlight in general). How liberating it was to dance on t-shirt in the nature and let all the conservative rules of how I should behave behind. The more I danced and looked how people were freely impressing themselves, creating and playing music the way they had chosen, the happier I got. Iran had definitely touched me by trying to control me and my freedom and by every sound, rhythm and move by move I felt how I was dropping the heavy feelings away that Iran had left me. I don't remember when I have appreciated and enjoyed dancing that much.
Most of the friends I made in the festival came also to Tbilisi, capital of Georgia, where I cycled from the festival. How good it felt to have friends calling you to meet up for a wine (Georgia has great wine) or coffee. Actually it was first time on my trip that I was suddenly surrounded by friends whom I could call and asked if they are up to do something. Another big highlight in Georgia was Shota, whom I had met already in Nepal. He invited me to stay at his place in Tbilisi and he was the first person whom I had met earlier on this trip and who invited me into his home. I think for the first time I realized that I have cycled long way from Nepal to Georgia. So not only I had friends but I had beautiful home with keys to go into. Somehow, life felt so "normal" suddenly. As Shotas friend said, it's easy to arrive to Tbilisi, but it's hard to leave. I got stuck into this city where buildings are cutely old but the whole city is full of young alternative urban energy. Tbilisi is so far my favorite city that I have visited and at the same time a city where I could see myself living for a while.
I had decided to take a ferry from Batumi, harbor town on a Black Sea cost, to Bulgary. So, after one and half week, I left Tbilisi by choosing a more quiet mountain road towards the cost. To continue cycling after long breaks it's always a bit hard. It's hard to get going and it was even harder to say goodbye to all my friends. Yet, the hunger for the unknown mountain road was bigger than the feeling for staying. I missed the road and I missed waking up from my tent. When I started to pedal up to the mountains from Tbilisi, I felt blessed (except my legs who wanted go back to the sofa). Suddenly, I felt like I was more me than I had been for months. The trust to kindness of humanity was found inside me again and I felt confident to hit the mountains and do camping without being scared of people. I cannot even thank enough for all these people who stepped into my life during that period of my trip and who gave me so much love and connection to get myself back together. The same words go to all my old friends and family who asked me how am I doing. Special thank you for Shota who gave me safe home, thought me of Georgian culture.
On the mountains of Georgia I had my first rains. When did it rain last time on my trip? I totally had forgotten how it feels to be wet and cold basically all the time. During rainy nights, when I slept basically in a cold swimming pools, I remembered how my tent is not waterproof and decided to do something about it in Europe. Over half of my cycling days it was raining, but I enjoyed the road in Georgia anyways. The landscape is green and mountainous (even though because of heavy rains and mist, most of the time I couldn't see anything) with lot of perfect camping spots. I felt that I have found a paradise in the world; nature is stunning, people are friendly and easy going and food (finally it was easy to find vegetarian options) and wine are super delicious. People continuously invited me to have tea, coffee or alcohol. The understanding of Time suited me very well, since It moves slowly in Georgia meaning that things happen rather tomorrow than today. Georgians are very proud of Georgia being very safe country and that is my experience as well. People are interested about me and my journey, but not in too intensive way. This feeling of safety was very welcomed to me and I slept well in my tent picking up the stunning camping spots.
I made my way to Batumi where I met beautiful group of friends, who let me stay in their office and took me to eat my last (or that I thought then) dinner to tasty restaurant. This group of friends were from 19 to 22 years old, but some of them were already married and were running their own business! Because of all these people whom I met in Georgia, I was ready to go to cycle trough Turkey instead of taking the boat to Bulgaria. This is one beauty of cycle touring, plans are there but I never know where I will end up. Bicycle touring gives The freedom to choose the right direction just by listening my own instincts. So, instead of all earlier plans, I decided to see Turkey. To be honest, the reason why I didn't want to go to turkey had nothing to do its current relatively unstable political situation, but I didn't want to have problems anymore. While cycling the mountains of Georgia, I just came into a conclusion that I cannot judge that country to be hazardous for me, without checking it out first. Therefore, I decided to give Turkey a chance and go there with open mind and heart.
I didn't manage to leave Georgia quite yet, because the heaviest rain and thunder storm forced me to look for a shelter. I can only thank for the weather that I had a change to meet two Bulgarian cycle tourist Ivan and Todor. We found each other's just when the the rain started and together we spend the morning and afternoon under a roof watching cars diving through the flooded streets, drinking rakia and listening music. Once the rain stopped Ivan and Todor turned out to be two mans rock band on their way to destiny unknown. If I would have had little more money, I would have joined these two men to go back to east. As Ivan said, sometimes less is more and the next day we had to say good bye. Ivan and Todor are examples of people who are living their dream and they have put all their spirit into it, by doing that the energy around them is something magical. I am sure the world will show its best for these boys. How inspiring end for my never ending good times in Georgia.
I have been non-stop reading your journey, tears now and then, mostly moved by the kindness people have shown you. Enjoyed every detail!
VastaaPoistaBack in Turku, would love to invite you for Chai if you are around. Please check LinkedIn message and see my contact details. Would love to hear your tale more in person! I will keep reading and finish every single diary! Absolutely absorbed! Best, Rina